So you're no Shaun White. You haven't snowboarded to gold medals in the Winter X Games or the Olympics. And you're not sponsored by Burton or Oakley.
So what?
You're a pretty decent rider - good enough to justify buying some new snowboarding gear. But where do you start? Having ridden a few snowboards, you've probably got an idea which board length you're comfortable with. And of course there's your budget - you know how much you can spend on a board. Beyond that, how do you select the right one?
While just about any snowboard setup will get you down the mountain, having the appropriate board, bindings and boots for your individual style will make all the difference between merely riding - and truly owning the mountain. No promises on earning a gold medal, though.
Snowboarding Styles
Knowing about the different riding styles is vital when you're looking for your own equipment. After all, snowboarding gear - from boards to boots - is designed around the riding style for which it's intended.
The most popular snowboarding style, all-mountain freeriding is just what it sounds like. Freeriders hit every type of snow and every type of run, from groomed "blues" to powder-filled back bowls, and often like to go fast. The majority of snowboarding gear is designed for this versatile riding style.
Becoming ever more popular, freestyle boarding involves pulling tricks and grabbing big air in the snow park or half pipe. Many mountains offer extensive "trick parks" for freestyle enthusiasts.
This category primarily involves cruising at high speeds over packed snow.
It's All About the Board
When boarding, it's kind of obvious which piece of equipment is most important. With this in mind, don't skimp on price when buying a snowboard. Besides quality, paying more also means a lighter board and technical features to absorb vibrations or enhance stability. Here are a few general guidelines to help you select the right snowboard.
Board Style
All-Mountain (Freeride) Snowboards are semi-rigid and generally are paired with a soft binding and a soft boot. Longer and stiffer than freestyle boards, these are the best all-around boards. They can also be used for snowboard touring if you're interested in exploring untouched powder away from the resorts.
Freestyle (Park) Snowboards are shorter and more flexible than All-Mountain boards. These boards are generally wider for easy landings, with steep, symmetrical curvature at nose and tail for easy riding in either direction on the board. Best for groomed or packed runs.
Freecarve Snowboards are flatter and stiffer than other boards, and usually have a squared tail. Pair this board type with hard boots and plate bindings. Ideal for high speeds on packed snow.
Board Length
A few things should be considered when deciding on board length. Foremost, your individual height and weight; also, the terrain and snow conditions you favor. Generally speaking, a board should stand about as tall as your mouth or nose. From there, you can pick a longer or shorter board based on the following criteria:
Longer boards (which stand around your eye height) are:
- More stable but less maneuverable.
- Best for deep powder, high speeds, and advanced riders.
- Ideal if you are heavy for your height or wear a pack - you'll need the extra flotation.
Shorter boards (which stand at about your chin height) are:
- Best for beginning boarders.
- Great for trick riding in the half pipe and going for big air.
- Ideal if you're lightweight for your height - it will be easier to control the board.
Measure yourself at home to determine your ideal board height. Remember to measure to the height of your appropriate facial feature - not your overall height. Since snowboards are sized in centimeters, here's a quick conversion chart:
Snowboard Length Conversion Table:
| Height of Eyes, Nose/Mouth or Chin (Inches) | Best Board Length (Centimeters) |
|---|
| 40 | 102 |
| 42 | 107 |
| 44 | 112 |
| 46 | 117 |
| 48 | 122 |
| 50 | 127 |
| 52 | 132 |
| 54 | 137 |
| 56 | 142 |
| 58 | 147 |
| 60 | 152 |
| 62 | 157 |
| 64 | 163 |
| 66 | 168 |
| 68 | 173 |
| 70 | 178 |
Turn Radius
The turn radius of a given snowboard is approximated based on how deep the sidecut is, and increases with a shallower sidecut. Translation: The more a snowboard looks like an hourglass, the smaller the turn radius. A smaller turn radius means tighter and faster turns.
Flex
Flexible boards turn easier at slower speeds and are easier for beginners to maneuver. Expert riders should lean toward super-stiff boards with added "pop" for stability and a "chatter-free" ride on high-speed runs.
Board Construction
Core: Usually wood or foam. Wood cores are firmer and more responsive; foam cores are more flexible and vibrate less.
Base: This is the bottom of the board, which touches the snow. Usually polyethylene or composite, and either extruded or sintered. Extruded bases are less expensive and easier to repair, while sintered bases are faster and hold wax better.
Edge: Almost always metal, to cut easily into snow and ice.
Laminate: Fiberglass layers that sandwich the core on top and bottom for stiffness and strength.
Choosing the Right Boots
Just like any footwear, a good fit is the most important thing when selecting snowboard boots. Always buy boots before you look for compatible bindings! Follow these guidelines to pick the best pair:
Riding Style
- All-Mountain: Taller, moderately stiff boots for added support
- Freestyle: Flexible boots to pull tricks in snowboard parks
- Freecarve: Stiff, supportive boots for stability.
Boot Type
Soft boots have a non-rigid outer and treaded sole. They're flexible and good for a range of skill levels and boarding styles.
Hard boots are like ski boots; they have a hard outer shell and rigid sole, but allow lateral ankle movement. These give supreme support for racing and freecarving on hard-packed powder.
Step-in boots are stiffer and offer more support than soft boots. Good for high-speed carving.
Boot Features
Keep an eye out for extras such as heat-moldable liners that offer a custom fit after heating with a hair dryer, or systems that allow quick and easy tighten/ release with the turn of a dial.
Boot Fit Tips
- Wear snowboarding socks when you try on boots.
- Boots should feel snug, with your toes close to the end of the boot and your heel fixed in place when your knees are bent.
- Look out for pressure points. Something that feels weird in the try-on phase will become downright painful after a day on the mountain.
- Break them in. Just like hiking boots, your new snowboard boots must be worn around the house for a few days to get them ready for action.
Remember: If you have any problems with the fit of your boots, return them and Sierra Trading Post will gladly replace them with another pair.
Binding Options
Bindings don't just keep your feet attached to your snowboard - they are responsible for much of the energy transfer between you and your board. To get the best control and board responsiveness, you need the right bindings.
Important Tip: Buy the right snowboard boots first, then make a decision on bindings. Not all boots and bindings are compatible.
Binding Basics
With few exceptions, bindings generally fasten to snowboards in a pre-drilled 4x4 mounting configuration. These fastening systems allow easy adjustment of foot placement and stance angle, which is important since you will likely change your stance to match your style as you become a more experienced boarder.
The "highback" or plate end of the binding, supports your heel and calf. The height and type of highback will determine the degree of power transfer from your body to your board.
Binding Types
The most common snowboard bindings, strap bindings are best for soft boots and either freestyle or all-mountain boarders. Be sure that the back of a strap binding is lower than the top of your boot. The highback on these bindings ranges from small (for freestyle mobility) to large (for all-mountain support). A major advantage of these bindings is that they can fit almost any boot.
These are bindings that fasten boot to board without straps. They are only compatible with specific boots, so they must match up with boots you already have. Their major strength is the quick convenience of attaching and releasing your feet between runs. Not a great choice for deep powder, though.
Some manufacturers make "hybrid" bindings that offer the benefits of step-in bindings without the need for special boots.
Riding Accessories
Helmets actually look cool nowadays, and many can double as head protection when kayaking or skating in the off-season.
Goggles need to be helmet-compatible if you choose to wear head protection. They should be designed to prevent fogging and block 100% of UV rays.
Stomp Pads are designed to offer traction to your rear foot when it isn't secured in the binding, such as when you are exiting a chairlift. They easily mount as an add-on, and are standard equipment on some boards.
Snowboard Leash is a requirement at almost all ski areas, to keep your board from running loose and hurting others. Be sure to buy one after you purchase bindings if it isn't already included.